How to achieve the perfect Smokey Eyes
Already at the beginning of the year, star designer Tom Ford announced: Smokey Eyes are back. The smoky eyeshadow look was never really out of fashion. After all, Smokey Eyes in deep black are almost the easiest way to give your look a night-time upgrade. For those who find strong black around the eyes more reminiscent of a sleepless night than sexy rockstar glam: Smokey Eyes come in many variations, from trendy matte light gray to warm copper to glossy black. If you hesitate to try Smokey Eyes because you think they are too time-consuming and difficult to apply, you are mistaken: With a little practice, dull eyes quickly turn into real Kate Moss cat eyes.
The right base for Smokey Eyes
The right foundation is the be-all and end-all for any good makeup. It ensures that the makeup not only lasts longer but also looks more even and professionally applied.
Step 1 to applying Smokey Eyes:
Generously and gently tap a concealer matching your natural skin tone around the eyes. This should not only cover possible dark circles under the eyes. For a bright and youthful look, the concealer should also be lightly tapped into the inner and outer corners of the eyes. To brighten shadows and open up the eyes, it should naturally be a bit lighter than your own skin tone. However, it should not be too light, as a strong skin tone difference becomes clearly visible in daylight. A good concealer should also contain little or no shimmer particles. While these give young skin a nice soft glow, they tend to emphasize rather than conceal first and deeper wrinkles. A good concealer texture also leaves a creamy but fresh, slightly moist, and well-covering finish on the skin. High-quality textures cover well on first contact with the skin and adhere unchanged for hours.
If you want, you can already start applying eyeshadow now. For even better eyeshadow adhesion, a special eyeshadow base, also called primer or foundation, can be applied to the eyelid. This usually has a smooth and creamy texture that ensures the color adheres well to the skin and does not settle into the crease. Especially for women with rather oily skin, an eyeshadow primer can be a real help to prevent eyeshadow from settling into fine eyelid wrinkles over time.
Applying the color: Smokey Eyes in black
Large, clearly defined eyes can afford it: wearing black Smokey Eyes with iridescent particles. Those who do not like additional shimmer on the eyelids can also opt for a matte black eyeshadow. The advantage here: Those who like clear, graphic contours will love the strong coverage and depth of a matte black. The disadvantage: soft and shimmering looks are hardly possible here. Matte eyeshadows are also often harder to blend than eyeshadows with shimmer particles. For classic black Smokey Eyes, pick up the eyeshadow with an applicator or a thin brush, gently tap off excess texture on the back of your hand or a tissue, and then distribute it around the eye. For a flattering cat-eye look that visually lifts and rejuvenates the eye area, extend the eyeshadow beyond the movable eyelid towards the outer ends of the eyebrows. Then also emphasize the lower lash line. If needed, trace the outer contours of the eye close to the lash line with a black kohl pencil or liquid eyeliner and slightly pull it upwards towards the outer corner. For an even more intense look, fill in the waterline black, as this makes the iris stand out clearly and gives the eyes extra depth. Then soften everything if necessary. Hard contours can be gently blended with a brush or applicator.
The result? A flawless smoky effect without harsh edges. Cotton swabs are also a good alternative to blend hard eyeshadow or kohl edges. For even more expressiveness, apply a light eyeshadow color like white or beige as a highlighter in the inner corners of the eyes and just under the eyebrows. Then lightly stroke the eyebrows, brush them thoroughly, and fix with a clear mascara. Apply mascara heavily to the lashes, let dry briefly, and repeat. Et voilà: an attractive going-out look with a flirt effect.
Sexy chocolate style: Smokey Eyes in brown
For those who find black eyeshadow too harsh, softer effects can be achieved with dark brown tones. Brown not only suits every woman without risk but also flatters, unlike black, even with first wrinkles.
For the sweet chocolate look, apply a brown shade matching your eye color to the eyelid area already primed with eyeshadow base. Gently tap or paint the eyeshadow base from the outer to the inner corner of the eye. Then apply the brown tone to the lower lid as well. A thin black eyeliner line close to the lash line visually thickens the lashes. For even more expression, outline the entire eye with a black kohl pencil and also fill in the waterline black.
When applying Smokey Eyes in brown tones, the look can easily be worn during the day. For a more awake look, trace the waterline with a light kohl pencil. Matte eyeshadow tones without shimmer particles are best suited for an everyday office look, complemented by brown mascara and a nude lipstick. Those who want to wear their makeup in true 90s style can additionally wear a matte brown lipstick.
Applying Smokey Eyes in gray
Especially women with small eyes know that strong black lines and shadows not only make the eyes appear smaller but can even overwhelm them. Instead of starting the night with sexy, mysteriously radiant eyes, we then look tired and overdone. Therefore, the tip for small eyes: apply Smokey Eyes in light gray tones. Since too many iridescent particles can also weigh down the eye, matte tones are best suited here. Apply the gray eyeshadow around the eye.
More experienced hands can also work with two eyeshadow colors, a lighter and a darker variant. Apply the lighter eyeshadow from the inner corner of the eye to the middle and blend lightly. Start with the darker shade at the outer corner and work in an arc towards the middle of the movable eyelid. This darker arc can slightly exceed the boundary of the movable lid, beyond the crease, towards the bone of the eye socket. But don’t overdo it: applying eyeshadow all the way up to the eyebrows was trendy in the 80s but today only fits on runways or theme parties.
For small eyes, the lower lash line should only be lightly emphasized. Too strong lines also overwhelm here and make the wearer look tired. To avoid strong contrasts and create a flattering transition, the two tones should be blended where they meet. A cotton swab is also suitable for gently blending areas with too strong contours or contrasts. Those who do not want to miss out on shine and glitter can dab a little shimmering eyeshadow in the middle of the lid. For even more drama, a fine (!) eyeliner drawn along the lash line to the outer corner is suitable for small eyes. Long, defined, and upward-curved lashes complement the look and open the eyes.
Applying Smokey Eyes in copper and gold
Admittedly, the smoky rockstar look is absent when applying Smokey Eyes with copper tones. Rather, dark and green eyes in particular receive an unexpectedly elegant upgrade that can be worn not only at the next party. For the angelic look, apply the warm copper or gold tone around the eye. For a radiant look, then trace the waterline with a white or beige kohl pencil. For more intensity and definition, fill in the waterline black and draw a strong eyeliner close to the lash line. For an elegant and sophisticated result, only brown mascara should be applied to the upper lashes. For a rockier result, apply black mascara heavily several times. Strongly stroked and well-brushed eyebrows look especially beautiful here, as they give the eyes a clear frame and thus add even more expression to the eye area. Matte lips in a nude look or a bit of transparent gloss dabbed in the middle of the lips complement the look.
Good things come in pairs: Applying Smokey Eyes in a two-tone look
For extra expressive eyes, a Smokey Eyes look worked with two different colors is also very suitable. For more liveliness on the lid, every Smokey Eyes variant should be applied with at least slightly different shades (the lighter tone on the inner lid, the darker tone on the outer). For intentionally strong contrasts, this technique can be exaggerated a bit. For example, place a bright gold or silver tone strongly in the inner corner close to the eye. Then apply a somewhat stronger color, e.g., a strong copper or highly iridescent gray or silver tone, up to the middle of the lid. The contrasts are deliberately chosen here and should not be blended too much.
Next, paint a strong matte deep black slightly off the middle of the lid far beyond the outer corner of the eye. From the outermost point beyond the outer corner, now paint with the black eyeshadow towards the middle lower eyelid and continue the black line from there to the inner corner. Then strongly trace the waterline of the eye with a black kohl pencil and draw a strong black eyeliner along the lash line from the middle of the upper eyelid. Apply mascara heavily (preferably several times, letting it dry briefly in between), and if needed, add individual false lashes. The eyebrows should be kept restrained with such a dramatic design; a transparent brow gel is enough here to define the brow hairs without making them look too lush. Blush and lips in a subtle rose tone provide discreet elegance and youthful freshness.
Not just a Halloween eye-catcher: Applying Smokey Eyes with super gloss
Admittedly, colorful, shiny eyelids are more for the brave among us. Nevertheless, strong effects can be quickly achieved with the combination of "color" and "gloss," which are suitable not only for Halloween but also for the next party night. First, apply black or another intense color generously around the eye and then seal it with an eye gloss. Creamy eyeshadow textures are better suited here, as powdery eyeshadows can quickly change their color in combination with the wet gloss, negatively affecting the result. A colorless lip gloss is also very suitable for the glossy finish.
It is important that the texture does not run and is free of fragrances, as these can slightly irritate the mucous membrane of the eye. Dab the gloss in a thin layer on the upper (!) lid, then apply black mascara heavily to the lashes. To keep the focus on the eyes, the rest of the face should be kept subtle and matte. It looks especially elegant if the face is primed with foundation and a delicate, colored cream blush is used for accents. A matte nude lipstick is best suited for the lips. For a consistently perfect look, the gloss application should be repeated every few hours. Tip: To avoid constantly having to remove long hairs stuck in the sticky gloss on your lids, you should wear your hair tied back or up with this look. Therefore, the perfect complement to applying Smokey Eyes is a high bun and striking earrings.
Smokey Eyes masterclass: Violet, blue, and glitter powder
To all color fans: Smokey Eyes can also handle a lot of color and can be applied with blue and violet tones for special occasions. However, applying and blending requires a practiced hand. Start with the violet tones on the inner eye and apply the strong blue tones from the outer corner in an arc towards the middle of the movable eyelid. Place a silver or white highlighter in the inner corner and under the eyebrow. Fill in the waterline black and outline the eye with black kohl. For even stronger effects, carefully distribute loose blue glitter powder (tap off excess powder beforehand to prevent it from getting into the eye) around the eye, working again from inside to outside. Apply black mascara heavily to the lashes, lightly stroke the eyebrows in a brown tone, and brush carefully. Emphasize the cheekbones with a delicate rose tone and dab lips with a matte nude or rose shade.
